In every new edition of my book The Wine Bible, the chapter on Champagne has gotten larger. (Not all chapters have).
But there’s a lot to say (and love) about the world’s ultimate wine. Especially now.
During my most recent research trip to the Champagne region, I wanted to understand (and taste) how Champagne has changed. What I found were extraordinary wines that are quite possibly some of the best Champagnes ever made. I’m looking forward to pouring some of these Champagnes when I host corporate events and wine tastings.
Here are just a few of the themes I discovered.
Great Champagne is like a sword wrapped in whipped cream. That’s due the fact that winemakers are working with riper grapes as well as taking advantage of the Champagne region’s coldish climate and chalky soils. By virtue of those, the wine has a contrapuntal tension of opposites. On the one hand, you have this dagger of freshness, but on the other hand, long aging on the yeast lees gives the wine a creaminess.
In terms of style, there are way more Blanc de Noirs Champagnes than ever being made. These are usually blends of the red grapes Pinot Noir and Meunier. So if you love Pinot Noir, Champagne is your wine.
Champagnes are also, across the board, drier than they’ve ever been before. And most Champagnes were already very dry! Lots of Champagnes are now deliciously “starched”—bone-dry.
One of the aspects I find so intriguing about Champagne is the history of the people. Champagne has suffered through extraordinary tragedy, including being the center of devastation during two World Wars. But the Champagne region is also where the kings of France were historically crowned, associating the wine with celebration. As a result, there’s an undercurrent of tragedy, as well as an undercurrent of happiness and glamour. It’s a fascinating psychological mix.
Finally, one of the things we know about all wine is that it’s extraordinary at bringing people together, and making everyone feel welcome and relaxed. Champagne, perhaps more than any other wine, does that brilliantly. From my perspective, it’s a great way to begin (or end) a corporate event.
