Dear Chenglei, Some of the most delicious vermouths are hand-crafted, artisanal products made by small producers who sometimes use locally sourced botanicals, herbs, spices, and fruits in their own (often secret) recipes. This means that vermouths can vary enormously, while still retaining a recognizable combination of vividly bitter, sweet, and savory flavors. Traditionally, Moscato was used as the base wine, but producers are now using a range of wines, from Pinot Noir to Gewürztraminer. Look for small producers, like MATTHIASSON and UNCOUTH VERMOUTH from the U.S.; LA COPA from Spain; and BERTO and CARPANO “Antica Formula” from Italy.

—Karen