The suggestive graphic on this label—a mountain and the sea—says it all, for Isola di Salina wines are made on the volcanic island of Salina, just north of Sicily. It is a small, hard-scrap mountainous place in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. The wine is outrageously good—fresh, minerally, dramatic and with a beautiful thrust of fruit. Malvasia is one of the most ancient white grape varieties of the Mediterranean, and so you must taste this wine to believe it.