September 25, 2026
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Water with Steak

Sep 25, 2026 | Uncategorized, Wine in Society and Culture

Are Restaurants Shooting Themselves in the Foot?

By Karen MacNeil

September 25, 2026

 

A couple of months ago, I interviewed Eric Asimov, wine critic for The New York Times, and during the interview, Asimov spoke about the need for more good wine in American restaurants.

Not great wine. Good wine. Just plain, honest, non-industrial, good wine. The kind of wine that simply makes you happy. Wine that isn’t cerebral and isn’t on a pedestal. Wine in the service of making your dinner taste better. Wine that you can afford—especially in a restaurant.

The last part is a touchy subject. The following content is accessible for members only, please sign in.